Ubirr, Kakadu National Park July 2 - 4 2021
  Is it electrical or mechanical.

With no power to the compressor its obviously electrical.

But why?

There are no wiring problems that can be seen or show up in tests.

It looks like the fuse simply shook itself to pieces. A small break around the central hole - fatigue?

Compressor working again.

  With the aim of sunset at Ubirr we embark on the Bordedjilidji Track. It starts just upstream of Cahills Crossing.

We've seen one of these previously. But this is more obviously a caterpillar sized thing either emerging from or forming a chrysalis. Or just camouflaging itself.

  We think a fig tree. But it requires much discussion.
  Number 9.

We feel a sense of frustration within Kakadu. Looks like we were intended to walk anti-clockwise around the loop rather than clockwise.

There is no key. And no pamphlets at the end (beginning).

A sense of a lack of maintenance. A park in decline.

The short track led to a rock shelf.

  Not sure where the track was taking us after a junction we climbed the rock equivalent of a tree.

There's a short loop and a long loop (2.5km). And an even longer loop with a bigger name (additional 6.5km).

  A prau?
  The image of two sisters requires a bit of interpretation.

All is revealed later, at Ubirr.

All our interpretations failed to match!

  Memories of hindu temples. The distinctive shape and freezes.

But without the carving.

  Cahills Crossing was closed both ways at dawn this morning.

We chose well.

All permits for Northern Land Council administered lands suspended for the next week.

Emergency supplies only. Presumably those tourists stuck on the other side (we saw a couple arrive) will be allowed out at some time.

  A Cahills Crossing Croc.

We won't wait until high tide as it coincides with sunset at Ubirr.

  We dine in the car park at Ubirr.

Entertained by double barred finches making use of the water sprayed on the grass.

  Feeling a bit overwhelmed by the art at Ubirr.

A mix of styles and images and stories.

This is Mabuyu. His fish were being stolen. Eventually he threw a rock which trapped the thieves in a cave where they perished.

  A more literal image of a fish. Though x-ray vision shows us the internals.
  The "main gallery". Perhaps main because its longer.

Described as a menu, an inventory of fish and other food available. Hard to picture, this is about a third of it.

The sun is in the wrong place for good viewing. We think we will return tomorrow.

  From the lookout, looking east.

Verdant comes to mind.

The fire is part of periodic burning. A conversation overheard at the Border Shop (Injalak Art) included "last time you burned down the ranger station".

The fire is on the east side of the river and it is unlikely it will jump across. But it has happened previously.

For us, the sunset lit up the land. Later it lit up the sky.

A single picture doesn't really do the landscape and sunset justice. There's a 360 degree view of the edge of "stone country".

  We returned to Ubirr the following day after another night at Merl.

More food.

There is much evidence of grinding holes in the rocks. But of course no pestel. Or is it no mortar, I can never remember which is which.

  Directly above us. Inaccessible from ground level.

Painted by the Mimih spirits who can remove the rocks, paint them, and replace them.


An endless stream of questions from a young boy. And an infinitely patient ranger.

  The sisters, and food.
  The Narmarrkkanj sisters, as crocodiles, with scales, lying in wait for their victims.

To superimpose my own beliefs ..... a way of describing the dangers that crocodiles present.

  As verdant during the day as the evening.

Ooenpelli is beyond the hills.

  Beware of miyamiya.

A disease of the bones which can be contracted if stones of a sacred site on the Alligator River are disturbed.

  Someone put a lot of effort into the railings. Carefully butt jointed branches, all the right diameter.

They have become polished by endless supply of hands. A work of art in themselves.

We've spent a couple of hours browsing the rock art, letting our imaginations run riot.

Perhaps an aside. A news story of an indigenous pastor explaining "christianity is not based on fear" while trying to dispel vaccine myths. We have formed an impression that a proportion of stories associated with rock art are of the form "if you do this bad things will happen". We never cease to be amazed at the human (all humans) propensity to believe. Perhaps simply a shortcut to making sense of the world.

  We are tired. Bedding was washed early morning and hung out at Merl before we visited Ubirr.

We collected the dried washing on the way back.

Another visit to the shop in Jabiru. They have potatoes and a couple of other items that weren't available a couple of days ago. Fresh veggies, and bananas among others. We can't decide if the shop is slow to replenish shelves or the truck arrived. Meat supply is unpredictable - beef supply a bit light today, but some chicken. 3/4 of the upright freezer is empty, same as the last two visits.

A quick visit to the Bowali Ranger Station. We really are tired, and found it a bit uninspiring, as well as hard to read displays (lack of lighting and littl contrast seems to be a thing these days).

I had slowly been looking up all the park campgrounds, one by painful one, to list facilities and prices, using the internet and whatever other info became available.

A printed pamphlet available at the ranger station had a table with the relevant info. It would have been really useful for planning. Not so sure about the widest column in the table for "alcohol allowed" which has only "no" entries in all rows. I'm reasonably sure there would be more useful information available to take up the space.

I'm becoming more cynical. The information age appears to have paved the cowpath!

We ask about Jim Jim Billabong campground (it was closed before our Cobourg trip) and learn it is open. And so to camp.

We are welcomed by a flock of scarlet finches.

  The billabong a bit inaccessible, apart from the pump pontoon beyond the campground.

We elect to have a rest day the next day.


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