Pammukale (Pamukkale) and Hierapolis, Turkey Week 116 June 19th 2013
                       
A quick look at the outer wall of Aphrodisias as we left our car park campsite.
 
Then, having finally convinced the gps that 74km is shorter than 95km we headed up and over the mountains.

A relief to be away from major roads.

 
A third gear haul up to 1400m.
 
But well worthwhile.
 
There's a few small farms.

Wheat has either been harvested or is close.

 
Flowers are out to greet us.
 
And a tree line to find as we descend.
 
Through Bobadag.

A quick stop for bread.

 
Then down to the Lykos Valley.

Pammukale is on the far side.

Denizli, which we will avoid as it looks a bit big, a few km to our right.

 
Karahayit has red springs.

It also has an attractive main street.

This is a trap. Loaded with 12-bore cartridge. An animal pushes against the end and the spring fires the cartridge.

Our Turkish wasn't good enough to know what animal.

 
Sweet sticky gooey stuff.

For eating.

Tasted a bit like nougat.

 
The town is obviously doing well.

An aluminium clad mosque at each end.

 
A couple of km further on is Pammukale.

Not snow. Its travertine (calcuim carbonate for the unromantic).

Deposited from hot springs.

We avoided the north entrance, probably annoyed at car parks which think we are a mini-bus and try to charge accordingly.

 
At Erewhon in Thailand the water was contained in the valley and there were successive cascades.

Here its flowstone over a wide (more than km) of escarpment. 

 
But a little bit of human interference.

A very expensive (to us) swimming pool.

We parked in Pammukale village and walked up the travertine.

 
Since my last visit (1978) it seems a road was built up the terraces. Then abandoned to common sense to let the travertine reclaim.

Tourists now walk with bare feet to protect the environment. 

The ponds still look a bit artificial!

 
But there's no escaping the pristine whiteness of the flowstone.
 
Or the occ health and safety notices.
 
Behind the travertine are the ruins.

This the medieval fortress. A defensive wall and three towers.

 
The water flow over the terraces is controlled.

We found some pools with water.

 
Denizli is somewhere in the distance on the other side of the valley.
 
There are seventeen springs but we didn't find any.

This is a bit of maintenance for a paddling pool.

We wondered if the sweepings were used for building repair elsewhere.

 
Tomb A28.

The nekropolis is the most extensive area of Hierapolis.

It seems ironic to us that a health resort should have the largest nekropolis (cemetery) we've seen on our travels.

 
The Basilica Bath.

Built in 3rd century AD as a bath house.

Converted to a church in 6th century AD.

 
But back to graves.

A 2nd century AD tumulus grave.

Lots of burials inside, around the edges of vaulted chamber.

 
And lots of sarcophagae.

Somewhere on one of them is a drawing of a wheel and crank.

Let me know if you find it - with gps coordinates.

 
Instead of walking back through the middle we headed round the Agora.

Margaret found the main street but I was too intent on getting burrs in my socks.

 
Evidence of Roman streets.

Paved, with drains under the middle.

 
Hot and tired. 38 degrees is really too much.

Its described as a temperate climate.

This would have been St Phillps Martyrion if we'd climbed the steps.

 
Hierapolis is probably the largest (most spread out) town we've explored.

This is the 3rd century AD theatre.

The Italian archeologists have done a good job of rebuilding with mostly original bits.

Apart from the coca-cola stand at the back that obscured the sign and looked like an out of place eyesore.

 
We couldn't wait for the sun to move round.
 
Recollection from 1978.

The "antique pool". Cleaned up and salvaged.

The hotel, along with the others that had been built since, have been demolished to make way for greenery.

This is the nearest we got to any of the springs.

 
So, as the sun sank slowly in the west we paddled down the old road.
 
With a quick look back at the white bits.

While avoiding the dirty bits.

 
An even lower sun.
 
And then it disappeared from our campsite a km west of town.

The third truck belongs to a couple of friendly Germans who plied us with their last bottle of beer.

 
Lake Acigol and Lake Egirdir, Turkey Week 116 June 19th - 22nd 2013
 
Gateway
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willem Sat, 22 Jun 13 17:08:12 +1000
How good to see Panukkale has improved (the whiteness, that is). When we were there in 1994, it was al a bit brownish. We were very dispappointed that it did not look like in the travel guides. Now it does again. Good onya!


 
 
 
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