Wattle Camp and Bilbunya Dunes | September 22 - 23 2024 | |
Despite the maze of tracks at Israelite Bay, aided by our
sight seeing, we easily found the track north. Basically leave the jetty and turn north on the most likely looking track. Easy going. At the start. |
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Even though we are following a track on our gps map its
nice to meet an authoratative looking sign. We want Point Culver. |
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The track deteriorates. Stony. About 12 km/h. | ||
Alternating with soft sand. | ||
And clay pans / salt flats. Although flat they were potholed. With occasional damp patches. Less occasionally wet patches with by-passes. We drove cautiously. We also begin to see old telegraph poles. |
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Occasionally 30 km/h. A little higher than previous lakes,
a bit drier, vegetation. We've drove north on the other side of the dunes, then turned south at a junction, to look for Wattle Camp. |
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An old sign encourages us. But the camp is small, a bit untidy, tucked in vegetation next to the dune. We suspect, with absolutely no evidence, that Wattle Camp would be for linesmen. Access to the north more reliable, and passable, than the track from Israelite Bay. |
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We head for the beach. A lizard welcomed us. | ||
A room with a view. Windswept, of course. The beach has a thick covering of dead seagrass. We got some exercise walking back to the campsite and along the beach in a loop. |
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Next day it seems the driving is easier. Long lengths through dry lakes on solid looking ground. And more telegraph poles. |
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Wylie Scarp is to our left. There's 100km of it. Before it becomes Baxter Cliffs at Pt Culver. | ||
Soft sand between the lakes. | ||
20km north of our Wattle Camp beachside resort living the
junction allows travel along the beach to Point Culver or inland on the
telegraph track. We opt for inland. |
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The first in a line of telegraph poles. | ||
The cast iron support, a saddle, for an insulator held to the pole
with three coach bolts. A single wire. I heard that the line was later upgraded to two and then three wires. But I haven't seen any physical evidence. In 1895 the single wire line was upgraded from simplex operation (transmission in only one direction at a time) to duplex (simultaneous sending and receiving). In 1896, as traffic increased, quadruplex apparatus was installed. However, the salt encrusted line had high electrical resistance so could only be operated as triplex. |
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A line of poles. About 100m between poles.
For the 1290km line, that would be 12,900 poles. Seasoned jarrah poles. Brought by ship. South Australia used wrought iron Oppenheimer poles due to lack of wood. Where there was no wharf the poles were floated ashore. Presumably insulator mounts, bolts, insulators, and the all important wire, tied to the floating poles. Or perhaps carried along the track. 12,900 insulator holders, 38,700 bolts, 12,900 insulators, 12,900 of whatever used to attach insulators to holders, 12,900 short bits of wire, 12,900 km of wire. It would be miles and yards of course. But near enough. A few spares would be required. |
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There's remnants of wire. Looks like, and feels like,
steel. Not copper.
Research
says 8 gauge galvanised iron wire. Charcoal iron, where charcoal was used in
blast furnaces before the introduction of coke. Its magnetic I tested it. The surface is
more than rust. The little wire looks like broken strands used to tie the
main wire to the insulators. The relatively soft wire is apparently useful in modern times for emergency repairs. |
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Definitely coach bolts. This holder corroded. I wonder if they had ratchet spanners. I doubt they had electric drivers. | ||
The scarp becomes ever closer. | ||
Someone has collected insulator bits and placed them by the
trackside. They may be Siemens Double Bell Insulators. Possibly the difference in thermal expansion of cast iron and porcelain eventually destroyed the insulators. Proximity to the coast also meant corrosion and salt deposits on the insulators resulting in voltage drop and requiring line maintenance. |
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There's quite a few km, at least 5, of old poles along this
stretch. Some fallen. But laying on the ground. Maintaining the 100 yards
(?) between poles. Its easier to see the poles looking into the sun. |
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Looking back, poles and scarp. | ||
More poles. The line was surveyed at the same time it was being built. Scouting up to 20km ahead. One of the scouts was Tommy Windich. The same who's name was given to Windich Spring we visited on the Canning Stock Route. Tommy died in 1876, buried in Esperance. |
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A slight break in the scarp. | ||
Past the end of the lake bed we catch a glimpse of Bilbunya Dunes over the foliage. | ||
But more often a very tight track. Slowly, but even then bent a mirror mount. | ||
Ever tighter. | ||
Past the dunes. So near yet so far. Seems our choice of beach or telegraph track was a choice of poles or dunes. |
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We reached a junction, nearly at "the beltway" up the
scarp, and turned towards the beach. The junction has a parks board map. An addition to the map we have seen at other places has a "you are here" as Point Culver. We think not, we are a few km short. There's a campsite at the junction. |
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Looking east (ish) towards Point Culver, where the scarp becomes the Baxter Cliffs. | ||
Its not that we haven't driven on beaches. Just that more
things can go wrong, there are tides, and we are on our own. We find a track behind dunes parallel to the beach towards the big dunes. The deserts of central Australia have longitudinal dunes. Formed by the prevailing wind. There are also parabolic dunes, such as at Mutawintji. The Bilbunya Dunes in the picture are star dunes. Battered by winds from all directions. No vegetation, they are "alive". They grow upwards and outwards. |
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We stop short of the big dunes, and climb a small dune. | ||
The big dunes on the other side. Midday is not a good time to take pictures of bright white dunes. |
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The track we have followed was exactly where the map said
it should be. We could see where it went, but had no great desire, or need, to follow it. |
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We retreat to the junction and head a little bit east, then
up "the beltway". Thanks to whoever laid the conveyor belt to help us over
the soft sand. Its not smooth. But its effective. The tiedowns have a "T" top. I stopped worrying about punctures caused by them. |
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At the top of the belts a rocky bit. Not a problem. But just beyond that a short section of soft sand. We let 10psi out of the tyres. Down to 22psi. The "very soft" sand (parks description) in the last 100km hasn't been particularly soft for us. |
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And took a pic looking back. What a beautiful sight. |
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A walk about a half km along the top of the scarp - its limestone - and a view of Point Culver, where the scarp becomes the Baxter Cliffs. | ||
Looking into the sun, it will set behind the scarp. Not ideal for a pic of the dunes, we are hoping we will be rewarded at sunrise. | ||
Also on the walk a bee hive in a hole in the limestone. Nearly trod on it, took a pic, then realised I should avoid it. Slow learner? |
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The truck perched on the edge of the escarpment. Dunes far
away in the background. The route of the telegraph was chosen so it could be built. The builders weren't building a tourist drive. They avoided the dunes. |
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More flowers. We haven't seen these previously. The mostly occupy the centre of the track. | ||
About a km to the beach. | ||
Next morning we woke to light rain. We expected the clouds and some rain. Pity about the sunrise pic .... |
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Toolinna Cove | September 24 - 25 2024 | |
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