Eyre Bird Observatory September 27 - 28 2024
 
  After two windswept and chilly nights on the cliff top we decided that discretion being the better part of valour we would abandon plans to follow the telegraph track to Twilight Cove.

While we had a report of the track being passable in 2018, and unlikely to have changed significantly, other information pointed us out to the Eyre Highway then back to Twilight Cove.

The clincher though was a combination of "its been wet up there, though probably dried out", a report of someone driving into Twighlit Cove three weeks ago, and this Bureau of Meteorology weather forecast for Eucla Area:-

"Partly cloudy. Very high chance of showers, most likely during this afternoon and evening. The chance of a thunderstorm, possibly severe. Winds north to northeasterly 30 to 45 km/h tending north to northwesterly 25 to 40 km/h in the middle of the day then tending north to northeasterly 15 to 25 km/h in the late afternoon. Daytime maximum temperatures 22 to 31."

The thought of a thunderstorm, and traveling alone, made the decision easy.

     
  We studied the track we came in on, it would only need one boggy patch to make our lives uncomfortable.
     
  Is the sign simply wrong? Or is it deliberately trying to discourage us?

At a "T" that we think is the telegraph track coming from Twilight Cove it directs Twilight Cove to Caiguna, on the Eyre Highway.

     
  But anyway, our decision has been made.

While the track between the telegraph track and Baxter cliffs is stony and twisty, and therefore slow, the track from telegraph track north to Caiguna is faster. At times more than 20 km/h. We even used 4th gear!

We also encountered grass.

     
  And a hint of spinifex.
     
  The microwave tower near Caiguna comes into view.
     
  We inflate the tyres.

90 km/h is very fast after more than a week of less than 30 km/h.

     
  We normally don't drive in rain.
     
  We pass Cocklebiddy Roadhouse, and find the road into the Eyre Bird Observatory.

We camp a couple of hundred meters along the track.

     
  We are re-entering the Nuytsland Nature Reserve.

The map shows the telegraph track from Baxter Cliffs to Twilight Cove. And the beach drive from Twilight Cove to the Observatory.

The tide is wrong, advice is less than 0.6m necessary. And we are traveling alone.

At Twilight Cove the Baxter Cliffs end, and after the gap the Hampton Scarp is to the east.

     
  Next morning we head south to the Observatory.

It has a manual weather station (rather than automatic) for Bureau of Meteorology. The report is 20mm of rain.

No thunder storms that we know of.

     
  The road after the microwave tower and escarpment becomes a sand track.
     
  A quick call on channel 12 to the Observatory so we don't meet anyone on the track.
     
  And down the escarpment we go.

Much easier than the beltway.

     
  The track to Madura Roadhouse is along the bottom of the scarp.

The Eyre Highway descends from the Hampton Scarp onto the Roe Plains down Madura Pass.

Information for later. We decide not to follow that track out.

     
  We let out all the air we put in yesterday.

The damp sand is easy going.

     
  The Observatory has walking tracks. And pamphlets to describe each.
     
  An earlier map.

We notice the "limestone track". An old track behind the dunes leading to Twilight Cove.

     
  The Observatory is the old telegraph station. Renovated.

The stonework is a step higher quality than Israelite Bay.

Although doors and other woodwork had been removed the roof remained, which helped preserve the stonework and make renovation easier.

It occurs to us that South Australia has lots of stone buildings, simply due to lack of suitable wood. Western Australia has lots of wood. Though we are still in WA perhaps the stonework skills of SA permeated this far.

The telegraph poles we see are cast iron, as seen in SA.

     
  There's a museum. Lots about the lives of people.

Hidden in the corner is a leclanche cell. There would have been racks of such cells providing battery power for the telegraph.

About 100 volts, so lots of cells in series. But very little current, so they would last a while. Not rechargeable in the sense of reversing the flow of electricity, but the electrolyte can be replaced to recharge.

     
  In another corner an example of how the telegraph wire was attached to an insulator.

I'm pleased with my earlier industrial archeology where I surmised it would look like this from a wrapping without an insulator.

     
  A walk up the sunset track.

The tracks are marked with rope. Waste recovered from the beach.

     
  The dunes are live. The wind drifting fine sand.
     
  Not quite as white as Bilbunya.

These dunes are predominantly limestone. Calcium carbonate. As are all the dunes east of Bilbunya. All the way to Kangaroo Island.

Bilbunya dunes are predominantly silica and quartz. Silicon dioxide.

Difficult to tell without chemical analysis.

The shadows are from the clouds .... !

The whitest Australian sands are reputedly in Cape Le Grand National Park. We observed granite and gneiss in Cape Arid National Park, which perhaps is the source of the quartz sand of Bilbunya. The limestone escarpments and cliffs perhaps the source of sand to the east.

The Leeuwin Current flows west to east across the Bight.

     
  It seemed whenever I reached the top of a dune there was another.

I never did get to look along the coast to Twilight Cove.

     
  A bit chilly.

And wrong time of day for a sunset.

     
  The Observatory people work hard to stabilise the dunes.
     
  Its primarily a research station.

Also provides accommodation, and courses in photography and research.

     
  The poles we see are cast iron.

Another feature of South Australia with no suitable wood.

     
  A cottage, and the first telegraph station ruins. The new one built in 1877.

I was intrigued by the block of wood suspended from the pole.

I later learned it's a nesting box.

     
  A swift feeling at home at the observatory.
     
  We had to visit the beach. A drive, then a short walk.

The red bouy atop the pole shows the exit for those intrepid travelers who drive along the beach

     
  The track west. Cliffs in the distance, beyond Twilight Cove.
     
  A thankyou to our hosts, Margaret and Simon.

Then back up the escarpment.

     
  A look back towards the sea.

And return to our campsite at the road junction.

Plus inflate the tyres.

     
East to Fowlers Bay September 29 - October 2 2024
     
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