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| Gordon River - Lake Burbury |
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February 13 - 14 |
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We rise early and drive about 15km to Strahan. We
successfully apply for a permit and key for Mt McCall Track.
Then back to same camp. For breakfast. Otherwise a day of relaxation. |
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We watch the weather. Wondering what tomorrow will be like
for our Gordon River cruise. |
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Another early rise. The boat leaves at 09:00. Boarding from
08:30. Ticket pickup from 08:00. Clear sky. The rising sun silhouettes the
mountains.
We feel lucky. |
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A bit of mist in the valleys. Forecast is good for the
weekend. |
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The person in front of me took forever to press buttons on
the parking fee machine. Which meant an impatient queue had formed.
I'm at the machine in the maroon hat.
The lady in green arrived at just the right moment, volunteering to
assist.
The response time on the machine was more than a second for each button
push. No wonder people confused.
The complicated instructions above the screen emphasised "make sure you
have selected hours and not days".
Advertised fee is $1/hour. It has become $1.10. Max $10, which presumably
is $11. I could have used the
app. But that would have added 11% and an app with my credit card and phone number.
Apparently the council are aware of longstanding issues with the parking
machine. But obviously haven't solved them. |
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The boat we didn't travel on. It is allowed up the Gordon
River as far as the Sir John Falls. To pick up kayakers who travel down the
Franklin River from the Collingwood River where the A10 Queenstown - Derwent
Bridge crosses. It takes the kayakers a couple of weeks.
The yacht has room for a couple or more people overnight. |
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We take the red boat. The grey boat leaves half an hour
earlier. A similar route but different sequence so two lots of 150 people
don't collide on a boardwalk. |
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Snacks, a beer and bubbly, lunch, are part of the fare.
We are intrigued by leatherwood shortbread. But don't partake. |
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If I look carefully I can see a dolphin. The boat paused
for a short time to watch them play. |
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Hells Gates. The entrance to MacQuarie Harbour. A
breakwater was built on the outside and dredging around 1900.
Still a dangerous entrance.
From a convict's perspective the entrance to hell, and the penal colony
on Sarah Island. |
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To the north sand dunes. Perhaps the Henty Dunes. |
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We are outside the heads, but inside the sand bar, looking
back. The Elizabeth on its way to fishing grounds. |
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It seems to pass the breakwater and cross the bar
relatively easily. |
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We follow the western side of the harbour, past a salmon
farm. There are three companies operating farms for salmon or trout. Not
all pens are full all the time. Two or three lie fallow, resting. There is
little water movement in the harbour, some, but perhaps a bit marginal for
fish farming. There are no oysters, abalone, mussels, etc., as there is a
layer of brown tinged fresh water on top of salt water. Not suitable for
shellfish farms. |
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An hour at Sarah Island. A penal colony that predates
Port Arthur by a few years.
This area for blacksmiths forges. |
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A small crowded island. The commentary on the boat seems
to enjoy telling stories of lashes, with cats of 9 tails, soaked in sea
water and dried to add salt crystals. I'm not sure why I remember 100 lashes
takes an hour. Carefully timed. Theatre intended to discourage more than the
poor victim. |
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The bakery. The oven in shadow. |
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Looking south-ish. |
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There's a brickworks in the harbour. No branding, and no
hollow for the mortar.
I forgot to look closely at the remaining walls. |
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The penitentiary. Dressed stone. I know not from where. |
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A lime pit. There were lots of deaths from disease. Lime
was used to treat the bodies. |
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The little jetty. Looking southwards. |
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Lots of boats built on the island. 133. From rowing boats
to sailing boats. Put the convicts to work. Harvesting Huon Pine and
building boats. |
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A map of MacQuarie Harbour. How I know there was a brick
works.
There's also lime kilns. I don't know what the geology is. We are
hoping to walk in to Kelly Basin in a few days. |
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Part of ship building infrastructure. Huon Pine is known
for not rotting in water. |
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I have no explanation of how the various bits of
infrastructure were used in boat building. The shoreline has been shaped. |
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The big jetty where our red boat is moored. |
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Next about 12km up the Gordon River. The other cruise on
the way out. |
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Trees. And more trees. |
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A variety of colours and forms. A very old temperate rain
forest. Formed before there were mammals and birds, so no need for the trees
to provide attractions.
A good sounding explanation of why we have seen few native birds since
our arrival.
We look forward to the day we see a pink robin. |
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Through the first gorge. |
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Past the boom landing. Huon Pine that were harvested were
floated down the river, caught at the boom, and assembled into rafts. |
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We've heard lots about Huon Pine. This is where they could
be found. |
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Difficult to take a pic. The pine, which really isn't a
pine its a conifer, fell over. But didn't die.
Three shoots grew vertically looking like three new trees.
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From the other direction. They grow slowly. About a mm
diameter each year. 0.4mm in a bad year.
This survived as its a little far from the water, too hard to drag
through the undergrowth when there were other trees nearer to the river. |
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Foliage a little reminiscent of King Billy Pines. |
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We leave Heritage Landing. We are well short of where the
proposed Gordon Under Franklin dam would have been built. Just below where
the Franklin River joins the Gordon.
It would have formed a long thin lake. |
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Nearer the eastern side of the harbour on our way home.
Mt Strahan, that we saw from our last night's camp, is there somewhere. |
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On the way to pick up kayakers. |
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The sun has come round to illuminate the mountains. |
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A feature of the red boat that the grey boat dosn't have is
the Huon Pine saw mill operating on the wharf. A demonstration of a powered
reciprocating saw. The timber seems to be harvested from logs that float
down the rivers. |
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We have a date with the Mt McCall Track. We decide tomorrow
would be a good time, while the weather holds. We head to Queenstown. |
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Up and down hills, and around numerous corners. Traffic
is light. |
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Queenstown has the Mt Lyall Copper, Gold and Silver mine.
On care and maintenance since 2014. I think after a well publicised
accident. |
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The smelter sent out lots of sulphur dioxide, which killed
a lot of vegetation, which resulted in lost soil. It probably didn't help
that trees were probably required by the smelter. |
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Up the hill to the east of Queenstown. |
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We are lucky there's an empty camp at Linda Creek,
overlooking Lake Bunbury. Our rear window is high enough to let us see
over the bushes. |
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Looking south east. |
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It is obvious to us this is Frenchmans Cap. 1443m high.
27km south east of our camp. There's a hard walk, over 4-5 days. We may
attempt part.
If the weather holds we will probably see it from the Mt McCall Track.
Tomorrow ..... |
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